Terrarium Care

Terrarium Basics

A terrarium is a micro ecosystem that in theory will take care of itself once established. Your role as terrarium guardian is to keep a watch over it and give it a nudge in the right direction as necessary.

1. Set up & plants- we are helping you with that

2. Lighting- Terrariums need some light. This can be natural or artificial. Any type of light bulb near the terrarium is probably good enough for artificial lighting. LEDs are recommended. For natural lighting, be careful. Direct light from a sunny window will overheat your terrarium and kill everything in it. If you have a sunny window, place your terrarium at least 5 feet away from it. If you have a north window or a window that only gets sun for an hour or two, you may be able to keep your terrarium on the window sill.

a. Too much light will scorch and bleach the plants. They will get crispy and possibly lose their green color and fade. Way too much light will overheat the terrarium and everything will wilt and die.

b. Too little light will cause the plants to stretch looking for higher light conditions. If your plants are stretched out and leaning toward the light source, you have too little light.

3. Temperature- Indoor room temperature will be perfect for these temperate/tropical terrariums. Be careful about keeping the terrarium too close to the windows in winter because of a chill. A drafty window may cause your terrarium to get too cold and kill the plants. Try to keep the temperature above 50 degrees.

4. Water- Watering your terrarium can be tricky especially in the first two or three weeks. This is the ‘break in time’ and you will need to find the right balance. Every day your terrarium will go through a water cycle like a rain forest. There will be dew in the morning on the plants and on the glass. This should evaporate throughout the day leaving you with a clear view of your tiny world.

a. Too much water- If it is over saturated with water it may seem cloudy with water vapor or have a lot of water droplets on the glass all the time. This is a sign that your terrarium needs a bit of fresh air. Open the lid for an hour or two and check it again the next day.

b. Too little water- If there is no dew in the morning, your terrarium needs a spritz. If you forget to put the cover on and your plants are looking wilted, add about a cup of water to the substrate and hope everything will revive. Remember, wilting can also happen from too high temps and can happen whether or not the plants are thirsty.

5. Troubles- Mold and bugs. Usually these problems are self-limiting. Occasionally, you may need to step in and remove extreme cases. Remove dead leaves or any major sources of mold. Both mold and fungus gnats should not bother healthy plant tissue, but they may be unsightly.

6. Pruning your plants. Don’t be scared to take a scissors and snip off any unruly plant parts. You can trim these plants to half their original size without serious damage to the plant. Some of them will also grow from the cuttings as well.

7. Bioactive? This term refers to adding natural living microorganisms to make your terrarium truly self-sustaining. Springtails and other isopods are available to purchase online and at some pet stores. Springtails are tiny white moving specks in the soil. These are endemic on every continent in the world. Your wild-harvested moss should have a healthy dose of these little buggers already.

How to Make a Terrarium - A Beginner’s Guide (Step-By-Step) (terrariumtribe.com) By Dan / May 25, 2023

Contrary to popular belief, terrariums don’t require complex methods or materials to create captivating results. With the right DIY approach – and some reliable plant choices – creating beautiful living art has never been so easy. Even the simplest of terrariums can look professional if they follow these horticultural principles. That’s why in this article, we’re going back to basics. I’ll show you how to make a terrarium in the most straightforward process. Taking you through every step from the ground up and telling you everything you need (and don’t need) along the way. So let’s dig in!

Closed Terrarium 101

Closed terrariums can trap humidity and generate a lovely tropical environment for our plants. After all, the original terrarium (the Wardian Case) was designed to transport tropical plants around the world. Now we’re going to pay homage to that history by creating a stunning slice of nature for our home.

Glass Terrarium Containers

Almost any glass container can become a beautiful terrarium. That said, the shape and size definitely have an effect on how easy they are to plant up. Basically, the wider the opening, the easier it is to work with. So I wouldn’t recommend starting with a bottle terrarium. They really are as tricky as they look! Instead, I’d look for the likes of goldfish bowls, vases, and larger mason jars… you get the idea. It needn’t be fancy, you can get some great glassware from thrift stores, online marketplaces, and TK Maxx (TJ Maxx in the States). If you can get your hand inside it, you’re on to a winner.

We’re using a glass cylinder that’s fully open – it’s about as easy as it gets.

Choosing Terrarium Plants

Choosing your plants is naturally the most exciting (and possibly the most crucial) part of the project. To match the high humidity and temperature found in a closed terrarium environment, you’ll need to use exclusively tropical plants. That’s right, cowboy, put the succulents and cacti down! You’ll also want to consider the size and growth of your potential plants. Working with such limited space, if you want a terrarium project that’s as easy to maintain as it is to build, then stick to miniature varieties and slower growers. That said, if you don’t mind regular trimming, then the plant world is your oyster. To help you make your decision, you can peruse our guides to closed terrarium plants and the best terrarium plants for beginners. Both have an abundance of plant inspiration and terrarium-friendly options. (Terrariumtribe.com) Okay, so where do we start in picking our terrarium plants? To keep things simple, I’d look to choose from a few categories for a vibrant, natural-looking scene.

Foliage – You’ll need a show-stopping feature plant (or two) in the foreground to create a point of focus and a splash of color. Top Picks: Polka Dot Plants and Nerve Plants are both classic beginner terrarium plants. The Pilea genus also has some gorgeous options in the Aluminum Plant and the Moon Valley Pilea.

Ferns – Ferns almost universally make fantastic terrarium plants. They are the kings and queens of texture, and they adore high humidity and warmth. Not to mention, there are so many terrarium fern varieties to choose from.

Moss – Moss is the cherry on top of the terrarium cake and really brings the whole woodland/tropical look together spectacularly. Top Picks: The two standout mosses for terrariums are Cushion Moss and Mood Moss. These grow in clumps instead of sheets and, for that reason, are much easier to style in a terrarium.

Basic Terrarium Layers (Step-by-Step)

1. Drainage A drainage layer (commonly known as a terrarium false bottom) is there to make your life easier. Essentially, they provide a space for excess water to drain, and they act as a failsafe to protect your plants from root rot if you accidentally add too much water to the system. Which is all too easily done… To get started, we simply need to add a layer of suitable drainage material at the bottom of the container. Gravel is a common and inexpensive option, but I like to use porous materials where possible (e.g., perlite, lava rock or leca) as they’re lighter and bring some additional benefits for your plant roots. An inch or so high should be enough for most projects. As part of the drainage layer(s), you might see some people recommending a mesh screen and an activated charcoal layer here too. Both can provide marginal benefits – the former to keep substrate out of the drainage layer and the latter supposedly for filtration – but honestly, neither is necessary (or arguably even worth it).

2. Soil, the all-important soil layer – getting a good quality substrate is imperative. We need something that will drain well, retain moisture and provide nutrients. To keep things straightforward, I recommend choosing a purpose-made mix (any high-quality tropical, fern, or terrarium mix should get the job done) As far as depth goes here, you’ll need to add enough to house your plants’ roots comfortably. For reference, mine ended up around two inches deep where I put my plants, but naturally, this depends on which plants you have.

3. Hardscape Okay, so hardscape isn’t an essential part of a terrarium. But it’s such an easy way to elevate the whole thing, I really do recommend it. Seriously, a single hardscape element can quickly take your terrarium from zero to hero. Providing much-needed texture and structure to your build, it’ll draw the eye up, contrast your plants, and bring together a natural look. All of this by just adding a rock or branch to a terrarium? Worth it! Partially burying your hardscape can be a good way to add some stability, packing in the substrate around the base. You don’t want anything falling over and cracking the glass…

4. Plants At long last, it’s time to plant up! I recommend starting with your tallest/largest plant and working your way to the smallest. This helps you keep a sense of the scale and create visually stunning levels. Create a hole in the substrate (the end of your brush will do the job nicely) and pop your plant’s roots in, smoothing the substrate around it to keep it in place. Pro Tip: If you find this tricky, you can give the substrate a light watering with a spray bottle. A damp substrate can be easier to work with, but don’t soak it. Finally, pull it all together with moss. That’s what completes the “natural look” of our miniature garden. It’s also my favorite part! Start by grabbing your clumpy moss of choice and tease apart a tuft the size you’d like (you may need to trim off the fibrous excess underneath it). Simply place it where you’d like it in your terrarium, with the green bit facing outwards towards the viewer. Then continue until satisfied.

5. Finishing Touches Voila, the terrarium is done! All that’s left is to do is give it a light watering with a spray bottle and seal it up. Add just enough water to dampen (but not saturate) the soil. If you have a lid, then feel free to pop it on and marvel at your new creation. If not, here’s an easy solution using some Saran Wrap.

Basic Terrarium Care and Maintenance

A well-built terrarium mostly looks after itself (and following this guide should get you there). That said, they’re rarely a completely hands-off care experience. Even once you’ve got the basics down, they still need a little attention/maintenance every so often. Here are the main points to look out for.

Light – Keep your terrarium in a spot where it receives plenty of bright indirect sunlight. An hour of direct sunlight here and there is generally fine, but too much will scorch your plants.

Water – Knowing how to water a terrarium properly is half the battle. If the substrate looks bone dry and/or your plants are wilting, add a couple of extra sprays where needed. You want the substrate to be evenly moist but never sodden.

Mold – One (super common) problem with new terrariums is a mold outbreak. The heat and humidity make terrariums an ideal environment for mold. Don’t panic if this happens! It’s totally normal, and there are a variety of ways to deal with mold in terrariums. A great way to avoid mold issues from day one is to add a colony of springtails and make a bioactive terrarium. These tiny detritivorous insects that feed off mold – handy, right?